A Sound Portrait of Cairo

In addition to the radio program, producer Banning Eyre contributed a series of reports on his experiences from concerts in Tahrir Square to Sufi Celebrations in Upper Egypt. Make sure to click below to read these reports and about Afropop Worldwide's unique and one of kind program series.

Web Exclusive Podcast, 'A Summer Walk Through Tahrir Square'

A Summer Walk through Tahrir Square by Afropop Worldwide

Interviews:

George Kirillos on Coptic Hymns

" [...]some of these Coptic hymns have Pharonic roots. Because as I said it’s a long time ago, and the oldest hymns were composed by our early fathers. Some of these hymns, like Epouro were sung in the ceremonies for the Pharaoh.  Epouro means “king” as in king of the peace."

Moody Emam on the Legacy of Sayed Darwish

"There are of course young people who know Sayed Darwish, but they would be a few privileged ones who studied music, or studied arts. The media doesn't pay enough attention to his legacy, which is very sad. Because we can benefit a great deal. The world can benefit from someone like Sayed Darwish, his time and his wisdom, his views, and how open-minded and liberated he was. It isn't just in the tunes. And how romantic he was. He was really a man for all times. It's also sad because people in Egypt need, they need to take this kind of vitamin for their souls and their minds."

Kristina Nelson on Koranic Recitation

"One of the justifications for the divine miraculousness of the beauty of the Koran is that the Prophet Mohamed was illiterate.  And so what he learned, he learned orally, and he recited it orally.  He passed it on orally.  And the oral tradition of the Koran has been in place ever since."

Reports:

Changing Faces of Tahrir Square

" Various political parties had set up stages and there were speeches rallying small crowds. The Nasserite party had a lively following at their stage next to Kentucky Fried Chicken--famous for its role as a makeshift hospital during the police assaults on protesters in January. What was striking now was the cool, easy vibe. Al-Tuni sang beautifully. Vendors sold flags, t-shirts, coffee, trinkets. People chalked and painted slogans on the ground and concrete walls. One read "Enjoy the Revolution." In all, this felt more like a street fair than the scene of a bloody and fateful people's uprising. "

Cairo Journal: Pre-Ramadan Zar at Arabi's Place

" From the moment they began, the Egyptian women's group created an atmosphere of trance.   Some women stood with frame drums, while others sat with barrel-shaped drums.  They played strong, simple rhythms and sang in unison, sometimes in two interlocking melodies.  Sometimes the rhythm began slow and then reached a point of rapid acceleration.  The idea of zar is that an ailing person is considered to be inhabited by a spirit, and the musicians' job is to try different rhythms and eventually discover the one that seems to affect the spirit.  You can tell, because the person comes forth and begins writhing or shaking, not violently, but in undulating moves through the back and shoulders.  Then the musicians stay with that rhythm and work it in an effort to drive the spirit out.  A woman at the far right tended a coal stove with incense.  She had used it to run smoke over and "bless" my microphone and tape recorder.  She also used it to wreathe smoke around the faces of the possessed and afflicted.  During nearly two hours of music, interrupted by the odd cigarette break for the musicians, a unique atmosphere prevailed, part celebratory, part reverential, and very much nurturing toward those 'in need of zar.' "

 

Cairo Journal: Koranic Recitation

 

" The sound is ubiquitous in Cairo--in taxis, on radio, emanating from loudspeakers on mosques, and especially during Ramadan, in grocery stores and elevators. It's a single voice, male, intoning the words of the Koran with carefully correct pronunciation of classical Arabic--the art known as tajweed. To an outsider, this sounds like singing, and indeed, recitation does make use of the Arabic system of musical modes, or maqamat. The melodies can be quite expressive. Yet for the reciter, this is not music. The melodies--always improvised, never composed--are used to bring out emotional expression, but the focus is on the words, the revelation of the Koran, immutable and foundational. "

Cairo Journal: Heavy Metal and Ramadan

"[...]we ventured into Cairo's touted heavy metal scene. The venue was El Sawy Culturewheel, a short walk from our hotel in Zamalek. In recent years, Sawy has established itself as a key venue for various kinds of alternative music. The venue is arranged around a rather complicated intersection between two major roadways, so there are tunnels and bridges connecting an outdoor garden space right along the Nile with four or five performance spaces, an art gallery and offices. Even on heavy metal night, no alcohol is served. This party runs on caffeine, sugar, and the pent-up energy of youth. There is much to say about Egypt's heavy metal scene, which was pioneered by brave young musicians determined to buck the trends of predictable local pop. Concerts were closed down by police, people were arrested, even jailed, and accused of promoting satanism. But the musicians persisted, and since the revolution, they have been breathing a little easier. The 800 or so kids that showed up for this Tuesday-night lineup of four bands were exuberant and fun-loving. There was no hint of fear in the air. One young metal head lamented the fact that the metal scene was still so small. But he also expressed hope that it would flourish in the new Egypt."

 

First night in Cairo with Mohamed Mounir

“ From the start, Mounir talked about the Egyptian situation head on.  A rough translation of his remarks to an adoring crowd:  "Think about the big picture.  Don't think about the small picture.  We are not Christian or Salafist or any other religion.  We are Egyptians."  This remark strongly allied him with the Tahrir Square folks, who often hold up signs saying:  Don't ask me my religion.  Mounir went on, "Yes, we are Egyptians, and if  you don't like the way we live, the Red Sea is over there.  You can leave any time.  So think about who the people are who do not want us to develop." 

 

(Hip Deep Egypt is funded by  the National Endowment for the Humanities and the New York State Council for the Humanities)

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